Lawn Coring Alternatives

In most cases, the best possible method of coring a lawn is always the Coring Machine.

With each tine that enters the soil, a plug is removed, allowing for the greatest possible level of water, nutrient and oxygen absorption. The benefits of using a Coring Machine will continue for a long period of time afterward, while the holes take time to refill themselves. Even after refilling, the same original holes will continue to be far easier flowing for the absorption and flow of its nutrients, water and oxygen.

Sometimes, due to cost restrictions, or size restrictions of the lawn area, alternative methods may be considered to aerate our lawns. With these methods, we can no longer refer to the process as coring, because we are not taking "cores" or plugs from the soil. The parent term for the process is Aeration, and that's the term we must use for these processes.

Lawn Aeration With A Garden Fork

For small areas of turf, a garden fork can be used as an aeration method.

Dig the fork into the soil at least 10 or 15 cm, now move the fork back and forth to create some nice large holes, while really disturbing the soil underneath the lawn. Breaking up the soil is what needs to be done to remove the effects of compaction. Repeat the process at a maximum of 10 cm apart.

The method will leave the top of the lawn in a bit of a mess, but that's good, the job really needs to be done properly in order to be effective. Don't worry too much, after one or two mowings, the lawn will return to it's regular state.

Follow this up with lawn mowing if necessary, ensuring to remove the lawn clippings.

Lawn Aeration With A Spiked Roller

A spiked roller is a steel cylinder containing spikes on the cylinder, a long handle is attached from the sides of the cylinder, it can be hired from most hire shops for a reasonable price.

It's a very easy method for lawn aeration, simply roll the Spiked roller over the lawn. Because the spikes extrude from a round cylinder, as the roller progresses over the lawn, it's spikes in the soil actually break up the soil as it moves. The same process will also rip into the thatch layer of the lawn, pulling some of the thatch to the surface of the lawn.

Due to it's ease of use, a couple or even a few passes will ensure a thorough and good quality job, with minimum effort.

Follow this up with lawn mowing if necessary, ensuring to remove the lawn clippings.

Lawn Fertiliser and Wetting Agents

Providing we've done the hard work and really broken up the soil underneath the lawn, and left plenty of nice sized holes, it's time to finish the job to get the greatest benefit from our work. So while we've got the soil open, lets get some good things right into the soil, and into the root zone at this prime opportunity.

Fertilise
Use a good quality lawn fertiliser, and follow the manufacturers application rates, over fertilising can damage lawns and the environment, with no added benefit,

Wetting Agents
Aids in the water flow, water distribution, and water retention of the soil. Apply these to manufacturers directions, it doesn't matter if the dosage is exceeded because Wetting Agents cannot damage a lawn.

Water
Finish by giving the newly aerated lawn a good watering.

Caution:

Always be aware of, and watch out for sprinklers and reticulation pipes.